Chef Shohei Mori was born and raised in Ohara, Kyoto.
Originally, he attended culinary school to lay the foundation for becoming a sommelier. However, after graduating, he secured a position at a Michelin-starred restaurant in France and began his journey as a chef.
During his training at renowned restaurants such as 【Taillevent】 in Paris and 【Pierre Gagnaire】 in Tokyo, Mori was drawn to the regional terroir (uniqueness) of local cuisine. Motivated by a desire to give back to his hometown, he opened 【la bûche】in 2022.
The restaurant name, 【la bûche】, means "firewood" in French. The focus is on utilizing local ingredients from Kyoto's Ohara area—such as vegetables, game meats, and wild herbs—prepared using the technique of wood-fired cooking. Each dish is crafted with seasonal ingredients, offering a unique taste that can only be experienced in that moment.
In addition, Chef Mori is supported by his wife, Aoi, who serves as the service sommelier. Together, they create a welcoming and intimate dining experience for their guests.
Wood-fired cooking is simple yet allows for various applications in heat control, making it a challenging cooking method that requires skilled technique. Since the quality of heat changes continuously as the wood burns, the ability to assess the fire’s condition is essential.
Chef Mori assesses the characteristics of the wood fire and applies various techniques to ensure that each ingredient receives the optimal cooking process, bringing out its full potential.
In addition to wood-fired cooking, the restaurant’s commitment is felt throughout.
The dishes and drinks, made with local ingredients, often feature grapes grown by the Mori couple themselves, as well as yuzu, sansho pepper, butterbur sprouts, and wild herbs harvested from their garden.
For example, the harvested grapes are turned into purée for cooking, while the pruned leaves are dried to create homemade leaf tea, incorporating the unique flavors of Kyoto Ohara into every detail.
In addition to wine, the drinks to pair with the dishes include original cocktails made with homemade liqueurs and non-alcoholic beverages. If you're unsure, the "Omakase Drink Course" is highly recommended. It offers a pairing experience that will enhance each dish even further.
The restaurant, which has been renovated from an old traditional house, offers a charming atmosphere. Upon entering, you'll find a spacious counter with comfortable tables. The flickering flames and the crackling sounds and aromas of the burning wood in the hearth create a warm, soothing environment.
The chef and his wife, who are passionate about wine, have a wine cellar attached to the restaurant, stocked with around 500 varieties and 900 bottles of natural wines. Guests can select a bottle that suits their taste and pair it with the dishes for a perfect experience.
Chef Mori aims to provide guests with an experience that not only showcases the food but also allows them to feel the natural beauty of Ohara, the history of the town, and the crisp, refreshing air. The restaurant has garnered global attention, being featured in the 2024 Michelin Guide and Gault Millau, and is poised for further growth and evolution. It is truly a restaurant worth visiting.
Written by: AutoReserve Magazine Editorial Team.
la bûche is a French restaurant in Ohara. It features ingredients from Ohara, the chef's hometown, wood-fired cooking, and natural wines. The interior of the restaurant is a lovely house store with a tiled roof and Akane-iro walls, and the red of the wood fire looks beautiful against the simple counter. It is a wonderful place to be healed by the nature surrounding the restaurant, and the specialty red shiso is grown in the field in front of the restaurant. In this charming French restaurant, you can enjoy natural wines and Ohara's ingredients in the midst of the great nature.




